2501 Parmer Lane
339-8823
Dwight's comments:
I hadn't been to Stelline in a while (over a year) so this was, for me, a quite pleasant rediscovery of an old favorite.
I too bemoan the loss of the salmon appetizer, but was quite pleased by the excellent gnocci with a cream, bacon and sage sauce.
Stelline is also one of the few places in town where you can get a plate of spaghetti carbonara: while I skipped that on this visit (opting instead for a veal dish with a pleasing cherry sauce), I ended up going back a few days later just for the spaghetti.
They could serve the bread a bit warmer, but other than that, service has always been excellent, and prices remain quite reasonable.
I believe Stelline remains the Italian choice for anyone north of 183.
Lawrence's comments:
(Cue BB King) "The thrill is gone, baby . . . the thrill is gone . . ."
Stelline Pastaria used to be my favorite Italian place. Now I'd have to rank the food as good, but not exceptional: Carabbas, Mama Mia's, and Bambino's are all a cut above. One particular pet peeve is that they did away with my favorite appatizer, a great salmon on foccia bread psuedo-pizza that was absolutely delicious. Though the service was good, I fear that Stelline has grown far too cautious in its selections, and it (and we) are much the poorer for it.
10014 N. Lamar
339-8434
Dwight's comments:
This is an unusual situation: not exactly a re-visit, but close. Mong Kok is located in the former location of the North Rainbow Seafood Restaurant, but as far as we can tell, is unrelated.
And, while I like the idea, and want to see it go the second time around, Mong Kok's execution needs a little work.
The squid was quite well done, but my sauteed scallops were dominated by thin strips of juilened vegetables, much to the detriment of the dish.
A Chinese seafood restaurant is the sort of thing that you can make a go of in L.A. or New York, but in Austin? Mong Kok doesn't seem to be working, either (judging from the dinner crowd the night we were there: none).
This is a shame, because they have good ideas, and are this close to executing them well.
Lawrence's comments:
Although Don & Rosemary Webb recommended this restaurant, I don't think we were quite as impressed as they were.
My Hunan Beef was merely adequate. The squid appetiser was quite good, though the dry powdered condiment they brought out with it (which appeared to be a mixture of salt and brown sugar(!) was more perplexing than appetising. Excellent service, though.
They might be worth checking out for some of the fish dishes, or for their Dim Sum.
Previously visited: April 13, 1996.
3010 Guadalupe
477-7884
Pepper grinder rating: 5. (Ruth's Chris continues to bear the standard of "Best Pepper Grinders In Austin". See the Pepper Grinder Rating page for more details.)
Men's room rating: 3. (I do think that, at these prices, they could have a better than average men's room.)
Dwight's comments:
Yes, once again, the traditional birthday dinner at the top of the food chain.
Our waitress this year was particularly good, even going out of her way to gather information on the Class 5 pepper grinders for us.
As for the food...the steaks maintain their usual high quality, but I think they've gotten a little smaller.
I'm also a little bothered by what appears to be a slight price increase in the side dishes, but not as much as Lawrence: "...You knew the job was dangerous when you took it."
Frankly, I think Ruth's Chris needs to re-invent itself, before places like Sullivan's start eating their lunch.
Lawrence's comments:
Ah, beef. Real food for real people.
By that definition, food doesn't get more real than Ruth's Chris Steakhouse. To dine there is to worship in the Cathedral of Beef. The service was, as usual, excellent.
Unfortunately, the prices are real as well. I had never paid $62 (!!!!!) for a meal before, though part of that was my share of the $30 bottle of wine Dwight ordered. Still, though I've had slightly tastier steaks there in the past, I can't fault my $30 T-bone, which was a true connoisseur's (and carnivore's) delight. Nor can I really fault the $5 salad, since this price point (alas) seems to have become common even among less swanky establishments. However, at $4 for french fries and $6 for dessert (strawberry cheesecake--very good, though next time I shall go back to their excellent blackberry cheesecake), Ruth Chris' charges start to grate.
Though it will never be someplace I dine every week, I might frequent Ruth's Chris more often if the side dish prices weren't so outrageous.
Dwight's comments:
It was a bad night for the conspiracy.
Our first choice, Gumbo's, has stopped taking reservations at all. (Why am I reminded of Yogi Berra's "Noboby goes there any more; it's too crowded."?) After being told the wait for six people was an hour and a half, Andrew "Patron Of The World's Largest Indoor Rodeo--And I Don't Mean Bull Riding" Wimsatt abandoned us.
Next stop: Pappadeaux. An hour wait.
And so, on to the convienient Serrano's. No wait, but that was about the only good thing you could say for it.
Our waiter managed to completely botch Earl's order, and got the distribution of the other orders wrong. Meanwhile, Serrano's has made slight but noticable menu changes: in my opinion, for the worse. The new menu also brags about how the chips are cooked in canola oil (which might explain the lack of flavor) and the rice in vegetable stock (ditto).
The capper, for me, was the chicken fajitas: while the price remains the same, the serving size was noticably smaller.
I still like Serrano's: at least, the other locations. But this was my second unpleasant dining experience in the past year at Lincoln Village, and it will be my last.
Send e-mail to Dwight Brown (stainles@bga.com).
Return to the main Saturday Dining Conspiracy page.
See the logs for March of 1997.